I've long admired John Bartlett (right), the man and the fashion designer. The out and proud clothing extraordinaire has a "life experience check-list" that you couldn't possibly make up. Some bits and pieces:- Graduate from Harvard University, check.
- Launch own label in 1992, check.
- Be the first menswear designer to receive the Perry Ellis Award for Best Newcomer in 1993, check.
- Get the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award in 1997, check.
- Give it all up, at least temporarily ... um, check.
While most of us would probably work until we were blue in the face, John chose to stop, relax and reflect when, in 2002, he packed up his swatches and took a sabbatical to Thailand and Cambodia to study Ashtangha yoga and Buddhism.
Towards the end of 2003, he came back to fashion with a smaller -- and exquisite -- men's collection. And now, he just opened his own signature store in one of the coolest areas of Manhattan.
I recently spoke to the hunky designer about the gay guy's style, his store, his (three-legged) dog and what YOU should have in your closet this Fall.
Read up after the jump ...
Sanford Marcus: So what do you think is up with the "gay guys dress well" stereotype? John Bartlett: I think gay guys in general are more concerned with their appearance than their straight counterparts, but I don't think the stereotype fits anymore. Gay men across the country have a diversity of styles that are more informed by their geographic location than by some innate "style gene."
SM: Does being a guy -- and a gay guy at that -- make it easier to design clothes for other men?
JB: I'm very comfortable designing for other men because I understand their needs and how they want to look. As I mature, my own sense of style has evolved, and I think that is true for men in general. I like designing for men because I can try everything on personally and see how it feels. When I design for women, I have to rely on the women in my life to tell me how it feels ...
SM: What are the FIVE things guys should have in their closets this season?
JB: A very sexy pair of jeans that give you a great ass! A perfect black or navy two-button suit because most men don't wear suits to work anymore - but they'll always need one for weddings and funerals. A brown or black leather biker jacket that you can wear in many different climates; it's a super-sexy piece of clothing that only gets better with age. Every guy needs five perfect white shirts; I love white shirts and monogram my initials on the bicep. And an unconstructed weekend "safari" jacket, because we all need a more casual jacket for the weekend. The one I sell in my store has been a best-seller, and I made mine in a cotton moleskin, which is very light but warm at the same time.
SM: Yes! Your new store! Congratulations!
JB: Thanks.
SM: Tell me about it.
JB: It's kind of a glamorous general store. Alongside the clothing and the jeans and the leather and the suits, we also carry ceramics, candles and incense, books and other things for the home. Expect the shopkeepers to greet you in their floor length butcher aprons and a smile. It's the opposite of most high-end stores that make the customer uncomfortable if they are not perfectly dressed to begin with. My shop is a humble, sexy, interesting place that you can hang out in if you want to..

SM: What kind of guy shops at John Bartlett?
JB: All men; all men are sexy. We've had guys in their early twenties buying the same shirt as another customer who is 83 -- and who's still sexy as hell!
SM: That sounds hot. Has the opening been unnerving for you?
JB: I'd been super nervous up until the opening day. But now I'm thrilled to be there everyday playing "store."
SM: So what's your everyday style?JB: I wear the same thing everyday to keep things simple: A pair of jeans or khakis, a button down shirt and camouflage tie, and an apron (photo above). I like things to fit well but too tight, not too loose.
SM: And in terms of design, what inspires you?
JB: My boyfriend, John Esty, who's a master framer; he has his own shop up the street from mine. My three dogs and New York in general. I love it here!
SM: I've alwas wanted to know: Is being a fashion designer as sexy of a profession as it sounds?
JB: It's a lot of hard work. I think the sexiest part is getting to look at all shapes and sizes of men looking good in my creations. I've been designing for about 15 years and everyday teaches me something new. That's kinda sexy, too!
SM: It is. Do you have a favorite season?
JB: I love early spring and early fall. Both are times of renewal and rebirth and they always inspire me to take a look at my life and appreciate what I have and make me thankful for my life. I've lost so many friends to AIDS and everyday I thank God and Buddha and Krishna for my existence.SM: On the flip-side, do you have a favorite season to design for?
JB: I like designing for spring best. The models are tan and in great shape and you get to fit them in bathing suits. Fun, huh?
SM: Yes! And how's your three-legged dog, Tiny Tim? Does he come to the store with you?
JB: Most days, yes. But he gets bored easily and normally goes home with my dog walker in the afternoons. Tiny Tim has a brother and a sister now and he's happiest when we're all together in bed.
SM: As Tiny Tim might say, "Woof!"
John Bartlett's new store is now open at 143 Seventh Avenue South in New York City. You can check out his official website here.
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Saturday 22 September
By Kevin
He doesn't think the stereotype of gay men being better dressers than straight holds true anymore. That's because everyone dresses like slobs now.
I wish John and John much success.
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